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The center of the new valley: both modern and full of history
Egypt’s southernmost oasis, covering an area of about 200x30 km, with around 60,000 inhabitants, is the largest and the most densely populated of Egypt’s oasis. A considerable part of the land is arable, a brilliant achievement considering that kharga is one of the hottest places on earth receiving nearly 4400 hours of sunshine per year.
As you arrive the tang of dates assaults your nose and the sight of row upon row of date palms. Though busy and modern, in parts, Kharga still retains the romance of the desert.
ottery is one of the crafts celebrated in Kharga. In the main town of Qasr there are numerous shops selling ceramic products as well as a pottery factory you can take a tour round. You can also get some good bargains at Kharga’s lively bazaar or souk which is located in the southern part of Qasr town in the buzzing Midan Showla.
In Roman times Kharga was apowerful centre of activity. There are many remains along with those of more ancient times. Since the camel’s introduction around 500BC, Kharga has been the final post on the Forty Days Road from Sudan- along which all the trade of East Africa used to come. Even today great caravans of camels come along this route- but they are mainly destined to be eaten once they have arrived at Cairo.
The province’s capital has an aura of modern functionalism. More attractive is the Hibis temple just 2 km to the north considered the best conserved Persian place of worship in the whole Egypt. The fortified temple of Qasr Ghuwata was also completed under the rule of DariusI, around 500 BC. Dating back to Roman times is Qasr El-Zayyan, and far south in the midst of grandiose sand dunes, is the Osiris Temple of Dush. Over 100 funerary chaples of the necropolis El-Bagawat, all elaborately decorated, are of early Christian origin. After extensive sightseeing, a bath in the hot thermal springs of Nasser and Bulaq promises to relax the weary traveler, in addition to providing health benefits, particularly the alleviation of rheumatism and allergies.
Chapel Ceilings of Bagawat
Here are the domed roofs of one of the best preserved Christian cemeteries in the world. There are 263 ornate tombs and many chapels. The roof paintings are of particular interest. Ask to see the painting that depicts the zodiac surrounding portraits of Mary and Jesus. This very same design appears in pre-Christian Ptolemaic Egyptian art in the Temple of Dendera but sadly the original was removed to the Louvre in 1820. But one can trace the line that connects the two utterly different religions.
Ain Um Dabadib
Ain Um Dabadib, located some 40km north of the main town of Qasr Kharga, is an amazing fortress that has been occupied since before Roman times. An incredible place that sits below the escarpment but 220metres above the desert floor it commands great vistas. All around are scattered and broken pots that date all the way back through Islamic times to Christian to Roman and before.
Paris, Egypt
It is widely believed that Baris in Kharga is named after Paris in France. Perhaps this is an example of the great sense of humour Egyptians display. The world famous architect Hassan Fathi designed an ecologically sound village to replace old Baris, hence New Baris.
Unfortunately the locals did not take to being moved and New Baris is now deserted, an interesting example of great architecture that somehow misses the mark.